“I might have become a millionaire, but I chose to become a tramp!”
General:
I started the JMT NOBO from Cottonwood Pass on 08/20/24 and finished on 09/09/24. I probably averaged around 12–15 miles a day, with a few shorter days under 10 and a few close to 20. I think I could’ve gone a bit faster and done 15+ most days, but I had the luxury of not needing to finish by a certain date, so there was no reason to rush. A lot of people I met were aiming to finish in 14 days, and while that’s certainly possible, I don’t think it would’ve been nearly as enjoyable. Half the fun is stopping to swim, hanging out at camp, things like that.
Temps/Weather:
Daytime highs were mostly in the 70s to 80s, and nighttime lows were probably in the mid to upper 30s. Nothing ever froze, but it got close a few nights. Campsite selection plays a big role here. I usually camped lower because I’m a cold sleeper, but folks camping closer to the passes were likely hitting freezing temps most nights. We got really lucky with the weather overall. There was some smoke near Whitney at the start, but it cleared as we headed north. Late-season smoke is always a gamble, and I think we just got lucky. I only got rained on once and snowed on once (going over Forester Pass), but there was no real accumulation. I think I walked on snow just once, for about 20 yards over Muir Pass. No microspikes needed that late in the season. Whitney at sunrise was extremely cold and windy. Definitely bring every layer you have, and maybe even your sleeping bag if you want to hang out up there for long.
Gear:
I used a Durston X-Mid 2P (solo, but it’s the only tent I own), a 20-degree EE quilt, Nemo Tensor mat, and a Hyperlite 55L pack. Everything worked well overall. My tent zippers were barely hanging on by the end, so I’m thankful we didn’t get hit with any big storms. To be fair, I’ve beat that tent up over the years. It’s a great tent, aside from its large footprint. The Hyperlite pack left a lot to be desired in terms of support. It’s amazing for short trips (1–3 nights), which is what I mostly do, so I just dealt with it. Carrying a full bear can in that pack wasn’t super comfortable. I wore a sun hoody, shorts, Lone Peaks (which completely fell apart by the end), and a Patagonia Nano Puff. For sleeping, I had merino wool leggings and a long-sleeve shirt. Next time, I’d probably swap the Altras for Topos or something similar, but otherwise I was happy with my clothing setup.
Resupply:
I resupplied twice: once at Kearsarge (day 7) and once at VVR (around day 14). In hindsight, I would’ve resupplied a third time at Red’s if I’d planned better. It would’ve helped avoid the heavy carry out of VVR and over that pass. VVR was a fun stop, but kind of a money pit if you’re on a tight budget. I took the footpath in from the south, which was about the same distance as the trail to the ferry spot, and then took the ferry out. The boat driver is a character.
Camera:
I carried a Sony a7III with a 24-70mm f/2.8 GM lens on a Peak Design Capture Clip for the whole trail. Honestly, I wouldn’t recommend that setup. My shoulder was sore after a few days. I shot most wide scenes by taking two side-by-side vertical shots at 24mm and stitching them later, but a 16-35mm might have been the better trail lens. I’m just partial to telephoto looks when I can get them. I brought a mini tripod and only used it maybe twice. Everything else was handheld.
Community:
I started solo, but within two hours I met another hiker and ended up doing the rest of the trail with him once we realized we had similar plans. That totally changed the experience in the best way. About a week in, we met a woman who joined us for the last two weeks, so it turned into a little trail family. We’re all really close now. Everyone out there was friendly and up for chatting most of the time. The better campsites can get crowded, especially if you show up late, but I always found a spot, even if it wasn’t my first choice. The popular lakes (Crabtree, Rae, Palisades, Evolution, etc.) fill up quicker, but surprisingly, 1000 Island Lake wasn’t crowded at all. It was just us and one other group, pretty far away.
Favorites:
Mt. Whitney at sunrise was absolutely spectacular. We left Crabtree at 1 a.m. to make it in time. It was a brutal start but 100% worth it. Rae Lakes was incredible, and I did a day trip into 60 Lakes Basin from there, which I’d highly recommend if you have the time. I think I was the only person in 60 Lakes for most of the day. There’s a fun little waterslide going up to Pinchot Pass (NOBO), but do it at your own risk, of course. Upper and Lower Palisade Lakes were stunning, as were Evolution Valley, Marie Lake, Garnet Lake, and 1000 Island.
